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millet everest vs la sportiva olympus mons

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Mons seems the best weight-wise, however i’m not sure if their smallest size would fit me. La Sportiva Olympus Mons, dbl boots part 4 The last of the blogs on currently easy to acquire (at least in North America) dbl boots. This makes you feet get colder and compounds the problem. If you are climbing something bigger and want Millet Everest boots, you can buy these in Kathmandu for about $550US. Regards Craig. I have a question regarding the Raichel expedition boots. The end outcome is that by holding onto this “handle” and flicking the fixed line you can clip and unclip very quickly when using large gloves, without needing to actually press the gate (the fixed rope presses on the gate). I think you are right though to take into consideration your unique foot characteristics. For those of you interested in keeping your feet warm, dry and frostbite free you need to use INTUITION LINERS. I have seen them, and they are well made. Ive heard Shonas has a good selection and had Koflachs for hire. there is La sportiva nepal evo gtx and trango extrem evo lt gtx wich one is the best…and my foot size 43 2/3 so if i buy boots 44 2/3 it is good? Once you have the carbiner handle rigged up, you can tie the rope into your harness with a doubled back figure of eight knot. The new Everest GTX boots are only about 2700 grams per PAIR, so now that they are lighter, would that make them more suitable for something like Aconcagua? However given that you will make this trip at least 3 times on an expedition, it’s worth considering, as weight saved on your feet is very significant. My only problem is that I have no way of trying them on and don’t know how they fit. ... La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo Mountaineering Boots. One of the difficulties with high altitude boots has always been a trade-off between warmth and volume. James. This makes it easier to adjust the temperature and change them over. http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1138 Personally I’d want something a little more supple than this, but that’s just personal preference. Both the new Scarpa Phantom Guide and the 6000, their new double boots, are fantastic and on pare without he LS Spantik and LS Buruntse but will fit a wider range of people better. It doesn’t take long to whip a layer off or pop a layer on and can make the difference between comfort and misery particularly if pre-empted. I’ve never heard anybody say they would use Nepal Evo on Denali or Aconcagua so why in the world would you think of using them in a mountain equally as cold. I haven’t climb mt. These liners will fit into any Alpine Climbing boot with a removeable liner. They wouldn’t be my first choice specifically for this type of alpine climbing, but at least it shows that they are versatile. Soaking your legs and feet in warm water (40C) is excellent and highly recommended. Regards, Simon. Hi Paul ,great site and info ,,thankyou , quick question ,,i summited Lobuche twice in 2010,wearing Millets Everest,it was a nightmare.Too hot ,too ridgid,too heavy,and added alot in climb time..Im returning next year to do C1,C2,C3 with a tag to Yellow Band and maybe Geneva Spur. Winter Skills; Rock Climbing; Fees; Everest. But, importantly, they are simply superior. secondly, for less extreme cold climbs (Aconcagua, Canadian Rockies) what would be the lightest weight boot i could get away with without taking too much risk? any agency you could recommend for the trek and summit. Do you make your own (if so how and what do you make it out of) or do you buy a sort of ready made one and just attach a carabiner and what carabiner do you use? I had to order a larger pair than I wanted and I haven’t had any issues climbing in them. For that price, I’d buy a pair, try them out in Winter and see how they go. I’ve been climbing in europe, caucas, kirgistan (never above 5500 -but sometimes in winter) and been using either a light weight la sportiva (k4) or my old kofalch’s. BTW… you may want to get a good boot fitter involved. As to what boots would be best, that’s tricky. If you did take the Baruntse boots, you might also need another pair of lightweight gaiters to stop snow from entering. Socks. I look forward to the next review and hopefully in time some of last years problems will be discussed. Pair of expedition double boots with built-in gaiter, e.g. Super insulated, this double boot combines a lightweight Vibram ® PE outsole, reflective insoles and dual-density, ventilated foam liner to provide best-in-class insulation. Hope yours and Fiona’s lives are going well! The sole on the Olympus Mons is very soft (I ruined a pair on Aconcagua before I realized how soft). Here are my thoughts on them. I find that they are extremely roomy. La Sportiva's technical boot for Himalayan mountaineering and the extreme demands of cold environments. so far LaSportiva Ol. The velcro and the zipper extend way down to the front of the boot making opening and removing the boots a cinch. I use the largest bent gate, non locking carbiner I can buy (so that it can slip over knots in fixed line. However I have not seen many people using these boots and wondered how well they performed compared to the Millet, especially on warmth? The first few days after the incident are critical, so I’d try to see someone ASAP if you haven’t already. Really nice discussion out here, thanks for the tips Paul! Was reading about the importance of buying a big enough size to compensate for feet swelling at altitude… good tip! Have you been on any other high altitude mountains since Elbrus? Thanks! Gear. but i did climb rainier in the summer with just regular scarpa hiking boot with vibram soles while i saw some people in plastics over there-just can’t imagine doing that. Everest in the past 4 years: Gerry Moffatt in 2009, and most recently Chris Davenport this past year. Hi Nabs, I have bought boots from http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com (search by brand is the easiest). Then tie in your ascender to the remaining end at one of the two holes at the bottom of the ascender, adjusting the rope length to be at about a full arms length. (You get about 16 hours at the lowest heat setting.) Would this be enough on Big E? These liners are extremely LIGHT WEIGHT, WARM, DRY EASILY and QUICKLY while you sleep with them in your bag. What do you think – Pro or Clip? Millet Everest will be overkill for Aconcagua and Elbrus, assuming you are climbing in a normal climbing season (summer). I think this is overkill and if you then went and used the same boots on Everest, you run the risk that your earlier use of them will have compressed the liners and reduced their thermal insulating capabilities. Unlike the Everest Millet the lacing system on the outer boot is pretty nifty and easy to do up even with big gloves on. These can be very useful. Kaspar. Thanks Mario. bless you for your patience answering a myriad of boot questions! So it is vitally important to make sure that a) you have the right sock combination and b) that the boots are suitable for the day’s activity. http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Footwear/Mountain-Boots/Vega-HA-SCA-VEGAHA. I have tried on a La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in a 48 and it fits nicely but was worried about the warmth and much I could use it after Elbrus and its expensive here in S.A. David ..New Zealand. (at least up to know). I have been looking at the Asolo AFS800 but dont about the fit or much about the boot. Some people take Olympus Mons to Aconcagua, but I think this is overkill. How do you tie into your harness? By removing or adding thin or thick layers you can regulate your temperature according to whether you are working hard, standing still at a belay, resting for lunch or whether the weather has changed and it is getting warmer or cooler. I have lost half the length in my toes on my right foot due to my own stupidity and using poor quality boots, so I know what it’s like to climb with boots that are too big (on one foot). would be nice to have some infos from your experience, thanks. I noticed that your gear list included Hotronic foot warmers. If you were running, could you just use some sturdy trail running shoes up to Camp Berlin and then maybe some stiffer hiking boots if you knew that you wouldn’t be using crampons and the weather was good? Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I then put lots of duct tape over the clove hitch/overhand knot and down the rope about 25cm to make a very stiff handle encompassing both the rope and the bottom end of the carbiner (all the knots will be covered in tape). I have had frostbite on one foot and lost half the length of my toes. A bent gate is much easier. That way you’ll feel more comfortable, have less weight to carry and if it does get cold or there is some emergency you can instantly heat up your boots to +32C for 18 hours with a single pair of batteries. If was going up high then I would be getting the Olympus Mons and if it was lower I’d probably buy the Nepal Evo (lighter). I found the pain so was bad when I did this that I had to have very strong pain killers. Thats a good question – La Sportiva is definitely lighter, so I would think that they wouldn’t hold up as well longer term than Millet. You can CUSTOM FIT them into existing boots you love, or insert into any new boots you purchase. Hi Nabs, Yes that’s the knots to use and I haven’t found that the cold impacts the duct tape at all. Im on Everest 2010 and am planning to take my favorite comfy Koflachs Verticals (super wide feet) for the lower part and have purchased some new “Intuition” high alitude liners from Canada, which are meant to be super warm, and…. But once again, this is assuming you don't get cold feet at laughable temps. Do you have any sugestion of what kind of boot I should be using for this kind of ascent? Some people I know have used La Sportiva One Sport Evo boots – the same ones you would use on Everest. Plastic double boots are OK for Lobuche or Camp 2. we are planning a normal EBC trek in may 2012, as you did this year as i can read in a post before. are they everest ready? So glad you are taking the time and effort to share all of this information with us. However, I noticed that more teams this year are climbing trekking peaks for acclimatisation and doing one less rotation through the icefall. In 2007, Paul returned to climb Mt Everest after missing out on reaching the summit by 100 metres the previous year. Thats what my wife (Fiona) did with her Olympus Mons. Your email address will not be published. That’s why my suggestion is to stick with boots that are more commonly used, rather than try something like this. If there are blisters, that’s a good sign, but don’t prick them. Carlos. I’ve never climbed Elbrus, so I can’t comment first hand, but its usually just a big snow hike. Paul, I have also been searching for the right boot to climb Aconcagau in. Good boots, the right socks (not too thick, correct size so they don’t bunch up), and heated insoles will prevent this from happening again. I figure this is better, but the choice is up to you. So basically tie one end with a clove hitch and secure with overhand knot and tape over knots with duct tape (will the cold not affect the “stickyness of the tape? I just noticed that Scarpa are coming next year with new orange Phantom 8000’s. What are you thoughts,recommendations pls. On Everest (and other ultra-high altitude mountains) however, this flexible approach is not really an option. If I had boots with zippers, then I would sew in some velcro straps to use in the event of failure. So that means no rubbing or massage of any sort anywhere near the affected area. Was thinking I’d add an overboot plus of Hottronic sole! I’d go for the Nepal EVO GTX based on weight, but that’s assuming that you are not climbing anywhere that’s too cold irrespective of the altitude. Interesting to read the the zipper failed on your Olympus Mons boots too. You’d want to have them arranged before you left for Nepal. They have been the benchmark for all mountain lovers since 1928. Just bought a pair of phantom8000 size 45 after getting cold feets on Aconcagua with a pair of Scarpa Summit that were too small for me (size 43). Most importantly perhaps… I’m a bit conservative on avoiding frostbite (but it would be nice to shave some weight on my feet though I have to admit). I noticed that the latest La Spotiva Olympus Mons has a velcro cover over the gaiter zip, which makes me much happier. 4. I just got second degree frostbite on ten of my toes doing a winter ascent of Mt. Lighter boots will save you a lot of effort, plus enable you to move faster, which is important through the icefall. So is there such a boots or I must buy two boots one for each .my foot size43/44 so should i buy boots 45 it is enough ?! Apart from perhaps adding a gaiter (and even that would generally be on or off for the whole day) what you put on your feet at the start of your day is what you will probably be wearing at the end of the day. You certainly don’t need heavy mountaineering boots for this section. The Millet Everest GTX still remains the most popular extreme altitude boot. If you put them into your gloves where they get even less air, before they are really warm, then they will never be very hot. I always wear the insoles with element inside and carry a battery, so I just need to plug it in if I get cold feet. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Mountaineering Boot $1,199.00. To release from the rope, hold the carabiner by the tape handle and roll the fixed rope over the gate, pressing down onto the gate. I’d steer clear of the Batura for what you need. had any exp with them? Hi Alex, I am surprised you can’t find Millet Everest in the UK, given that they are made in France. And ‘Voila!’ the laces are done up and tidied away. Too risky in the event of it failing (see the picture on this blog post for a La Sportiva zipper that failed.) Everest Kit List; Down Suits Review; La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo review; Millet Everest boot review; Info & Tips. Perhaps they have improved this in the new model, but it still says that that the upper is made out of cordura. Hope this makes sense. It’s very important with your feet to avoid them getting cold in the first place, because otherwise the blood vessels constrict making it even harder to warm them up again. Then tie an overhand knot in nice and close to secure the clove hitch. Also, the gaiter only has one zip- but it did look stronger than the millets smaller zip. How did you go, Could you find any information on them and how they hold up and or compere to other brands. This rubber is meant to keep the boot warmer and melt the snow off, and it does seem to do this, but I note that the new model released last year doesn’t have this. Like another poster, I have small feet (women’s US 5.5 or 6.0) with poor circulation so an extra warm double boot is a must. I was woken at 04.15 local time by the noise of a huge avalanche. That said, Attila, who climbed with La Sportiva One Sport Evo boots on Aconcagua this year, reckoned the temperature was so cold, he wouldn’t have got up, if he didn’t have them. Have you tried the Millet Everest boots on? i have another – i’m planning ama dablam in oct/nov and am looking at purchasing a la sportiva boot. I think 6mm is ok. Ama Dablam 2006 – Incident update Unfortunately on the morning of the 14th Nov there was an incident involving a huge serac fall / avalanche on Ama Dablam in which 6 people lost their lives. How many sizes bigger than your actual foot size did you go? Around its perimeter an outward-facing cliff ascends as high as 10 km (6 miles) above the surrounding area. Please advise. In the past some boots used to come with a different inner boot (thinner) that was for use at higher altitudes (6000m+). Ski-mountaineering boots. Technical, sturdy and reliable, those mountaineering boots are ideal for demanding mountain climbers. Dan actually requests on the gear list that we use either a plastic double boot (Koflach style) or Millet One Sports. I’m not quite sure I follow your post, but I think you are suggesting that Nepal Evos are not good above 5000m. You can also easily buy Millet boots in Kathmandu for about $550US (La Sportiva is not so common in Kathmandu). If you really want something good for Aconcagua, get a lighter weight mountaineering boot and use Hottronic heated insoles. Hi TA, That’s good advice regarding the sole of the Olympus Mons. But the ones you suggest would be fine. La Sportiva mountaineering boots for men are perfect for outdoor climbing and hiking. in our opinion that should be enough? I think this is a great idea. Millet Everest Summit GTX - Adventure Peaks. iM new to all this and the forum. Equally the boot has got to be up to the job in hand, be rugged and totally bomb proof. There are no specific women’s fit 8000 metre boots. The reason why I mention this in particular is that I have encountered quite a few people who have had to cut away at the side of the heel on their Everest Millets to enable their crampon heel clip to fit properly. One more thing, What rope/slings do you use that is connected to your harness that connects you up to the fixed line? It’s quite difficult to compare like for like as it partly … Some lightweight polypropylene gloves are very handy too for cold mornings. What type of training did you do locally for this climb? Do you have a recommendation for a warm boot for an Everest North Col trip (No summit plans)? These can be found in a men’s US 5.0. I haven’t seen these and I’d personally be very careful about taking something new up that was as important as boots. Buy crampons and gaiters for them too at home, don’t rely on buying them in Nepal. Your website is such a great resource of valuable and interesting information…thank you! A simple failure with a boot up high would at best end your expedition, or at worst have far greater consequences. The alternative is the La Sportiva Olympus Mons EVO and at 5lbs 6oz for the pair, these are a lot lighter. I know a few people who have them and they are happy. impresive and enriching… I’d like your opinion on the scarpa phantom 6000. You don’t need a tight fit for Aconcagua and you don’t want a tight fit which would reduce circulation in your feet. . At the other end of the 6mm rope, I tie in my ascender (using a looped back figure of 8 knot) and then in tie the middle into my harness (I usually don’t use a carabiner in my harness to save on weight.) triple boots - Millet Everest and LS Oly Mons by HeyItsBen » Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:46 am 4 Replies 3420 Views Last post by HeyItsBen Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:58 am Spantik (44) vs Oly Mons (45) for 7000m by Karakorum-2 » Sun Dec 07, 2014 3:46 pm 7 Replies 2830 Views Which would you prefer for climbs up to 7000m on snow: The Asolo AFS 8000 that you own or the La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX that you have recommended as well? This is my first time using a commercial group or any type of guiding (always liked to do it on my own) but also first climb in Himalaya — so should be an different experience I’m rather looking forward to. They really are worth the money. The general consensus is that they wouldn’t buy them again unless these issues were addressed. I would recommend getting approx two sizes larger than what you normally wear, because you don’t want your boots to restrict your circulation. H Mario, I think La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX would be perfect boots to wear. Cheers. These boots are reasonably tough and sturdy, however they are heavy. I usually don’t use a gaiter, however I do carry a cheap light paid with me and then put them on if needed (saves weight on my feet). thank you. In fact nearly half the the weight of the Millet boot. Two Athletes/Climbers I have worked with have summited Mt. Hi Yes, I will write a summary of my experience this year and compare it to 2006. Thanks Paul, I appreciate the feedback and will look into the Hotronics! Good luck. For C3 and higher most climbers prefer the Millet Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons or other type high altitude boots. From reading this discussion and doing some other research I learned that these are great shoes for Elbrus. Paul. The gate will open and let the rope out. It’s quite difficult to compare like for like as it partly depends on the shape of the foot for the individual. The other effect at altitude is that air pockets within any closed cell insulation will expand due to their relatively higher pressure compared to the ambient air. I would love to know how your whole experience on Elbrus went. 7 attributes that you need to climb Mount Everest. Another thing that I think really deserves a mention is that the larger sizes of boot still have a reasonably narrow sole width at the heel. Hi Craig, Yes I can write about updating this site and the gear I used. i also have a pair of RBH design socks which have had very positive reviews from climbers around the world, however hadn’t had a chance to test them in extreme cold temps either. It’s almost like a compressed closed cell foam – if you walk on rocks you will quickly ruin the tread, so you need to be very careful. I have a generic foot and I wear a US size 12 for all my shoes and boots. Paul. Yes you want to have a warm boot but you don’t want a boot that is too voluminous. But unlike some waterproof zippers this one actually feels reasonably hard wearing and rugged (unlike the zippers on my original Scarpa 8,000ers which felt way too tough, like they’re going to blow open with every doing up … and there’s no velcro baffle for back up or protection). Depending on where you are starting, you will have a 2-5 days of walking over rocky terrain both in and out of the route (unless you are traversing). I want to do a similar thing and attach my axe to my harness so if I have to change hands it’s not a problem. Cheers, Paul. Also keeping all those batteries alive, it wound be interesting to get your thoughts on solar panels. know if a UK 8/ EU 42 of the Asolo boots would be right for me? It’s hard to tell without seeing them, but I think that these boots wouldn’t be great for technical ice climbing (too sloppy), but for Rainer and Aconcagua they would be perfect. That is to allow for a thicker sock, swelling of your feet due to altitude, plus expansion of the closed cell insulation material in the boot. The Cordura gaiter is nicely slimline and very hard wearing and is a massive improvement on the previous version. Yes there is a trekking phase where trainers / approach shoes / light hiking boots might be used, and an acclimatisation phase where plastics might be worn, but for the summit phase nothing but the warmest boots will suffice. Very happy to share that information. Fortunately it was noticed at base camp, and we were able to sew on some strapping and make a temporary repair and then Fiona bought in another pair, however if this happened up high or near the end of the trip, it could cost you dearly. I didn’t partly because I was unsure how I would go carrying the extra weight of my heavy high altitude mountaineering boots up to C2. At ISPO 2019, Simone Moro presents Olympus Mons Cube boot by La Sportiva. I actually tried out La Sportiva G2 SM and it felt much, much better on my feet than both Scarpa and Spantiks. Please feel free to add your voice to any posts that I have made where you think I’ve made a mistake or the advice could be improved. Thinner wool or synthetic liner socks. Personally I’d prefer to see adjustability here but it’s a fairly minor issue. Millet Everest-GTX Expedition Boots $800 - I have owned La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo (gave to my Sherpa) and Millet Everest One Sport (destroyed by United Airlines) but need to have a new pair for Vinson and Everest. Whitney, the early morning windchill is -25 F, I was wearing 2 pairs of thick wool socks and a Lowa Ceivetta Extreme ( too tight I think) double boots. They fit my feet better (the most important consideration), they are not nearly as bulky, and they allow me to do more technical climbing. I used these boots on Amadablam in the post monsoon season of 2012, which was a colder season than most. I am looking to purchase new boots for this trip. Hi Guys Hope this finds you all well. Happy feet make for great climbs! But they are probably warm enough and if you are experienced with using crampons, then you are unlikely to step on them. Product Condition: The Olympus Mons Evo Mountaineering Boot - Men's is in Good condition. In 2006, Paul and Fiona both climbed together and although Fiona successfully summited, problems with Paul's oxygen system forced him to turn around. I was going to write about down suits and jackets, however I started writing about boots and it ended up taking a whole update so I’ll write about the down gear next. There are pretty much only two types of boots being used by climbers on Everest – Millet Everest and La Sportiva Olympus Mons. -Bjarne. But if you do go with the Scarpa Phantom wouldn’t worry about it only having one zip. Loose, tight, wide, long? definitely interested in lighter and more flexible boots, but i’m not sure if they would be warm enough. Good luck, Paul A. When I go to Everest/Lhotse, ... I’d like to try the Millet Everest boots but right now there is no point in having another set of boots unless one set fails, which is unlikely given the limited action high altitude boots see. I have a Euro size 45 1/3 and in normal shoes I take a 43. Anyways , after came back home I was looking for warm boots when I came across this blog/forum. And, unlike the G12s, the Vasaks don’t have serrations on the rear heel points which have been known to catch on the ladder rungs whilst crossing crevasses (check out this video to see the consequences of getting your heel caught mid ladder). I wouldn’t take my Nepal Evos to anywhere out of the lower 48 states, let alone in a place where you’ll have to sleep on a mountain for several days and deal with weather inclement. Do you know how they performe compared to the Guide/Baruntse? Hi Peter, Thanks for your message. I trashed a pair on Aconcagua-fortunately the zipper failed so the company replaced the pair and I haven’t used them without crampons since. If you look carefully can already see that almost all the tread has disappeared. I am usually a UK size 7/ EU 41. Paul. Half an hour later I put my outer boots in my bag too. Yes I used them on the summit night, mostly on the lowest setting. what we thinking about is jacket & gloves: we (me & my wife) have booth a 600cuin down jacket (of dynafit) and another sleeveless vest with 750cuin down. Im also planning to do Aconcagua, and then some Himalayas afterwards and are tossing up between a few different boots. Congratulations again to you both…a truly inspirational couple! Yes I would highly recommend Hotronic foot warmers. Our mountains are not that high, but yes, there are other disciplines one can do to compensate. I’ve done the Muldrow Glacier route. Good luck, Paul Adler. Have you any experience of using boots with a mouldable inner boot liner? Hire boots are available in Thamel, but they are often thoroughly used and abused so the insulating qualities are significantly reduced. Then the other day I looked at some Scarpa Phantom 8000’s. Representatives from Scarpa arn’t sure when they’ll be available but they sure look like amazing after seeing one of them on k2 this year (http://www.fredrikericsson.com/). After coming across all this discussion, would value your comments Paul. [ ] 1 pair of Glacier glasses, with a spare pair as backup. These folks are the best in the business in the States and I’m sure they would be able to answer all your questions and point you in the right direction. Also the zipper isn’t protected by a baffle so there’s no ‘Plan B’ if the zipper should fail. The commentary on the brands are great but the procedures on what worked for you is just what some of us are looking for. Head and Hands. So out of the choice of those two boots, I’d go with the Asolo 8000 AFS. I have heard to rub raw ginger on the toes…… Anyone has experience in this? If this was your plan, then it’s possible that you might only do 1 acclimatisation trip through the icefall, in which case it may not be worth the weight and hassle of bringing an extra pair of boots up to C2. La Sportiva Olympus Mons La Sportiva Olympus Mons boots. Should the La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX also be purchased two sizes larger than my normal US shoe size? Thankyou. Will the baruntse w/ overboots be as warm higher? Cheers, Paul. I know many people who have had to turn around because of cold feet, when otherwise the conditions were perfect. 41 to 45), with maybe 5 for including something like at Hotronics footbed. Once you were on the glacier, the Olympus Mons would be fine so perhaps a lighter pair of hikers could see you in and out. Maybe it didn’t work well and wasn’t worth the weight? They are only a little bit heavier too (200g). I don’t always turn them on, but they are there if needed. After a day’s climbing my feet ended up getting very wet and they moved around a lot against the bag, so I have never done it again. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube S £ 835.00 – £ 915.00; Sale! I like the gear from Rab (UK) and Feathered Friends (Seattle). Luckily the local shop we bought them from provided a replacement. The Millet Everest is big, wide and a common complaint is that they are sloppy. I really don’t have any trouble with climbing boots on this foot, so I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend you go for a larger size. Fiona (my wife) has Raichle hiking boots and they have been great, however the soles came off the first pair she got, after only 20 days of use. It goes like this: When I get into camp I take my liners out and put them either outside in the sun or else in the netting at the top of the tent if it’s warm enough. Welcome home (belated) and great to see more posts coming through. I don’t like my boots to be too stiff around the upper and ankles in particular. The La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube S has the added advantage of a BOA system that has replaced traditional lacing making adjustment at altitude far easier, but at a premium price! But if I wasn’t limited to those choices, I’d probably actually go with something a bit lighter from La Sportiva – ask at your local retailer. Pair of down or synthetic tent booties. I plan to use Koflack with a special inner boots and 40 Below overboots and toewarmer chemical packets/patches. Your down jackets & gloves sound fine to me. http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/learn_climbing_knots.asp, http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Footwear/Mountain-Boots/Vega-HA-SCA-VEGAHA, http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1138, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-spantik.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/08/its-back-scarpa-6000-dbl-boot-and-2.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/scarpa-phantom-ultra.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-baruntse.html. These boots are being repaired by the Goo Man – the plastic zipper no longer worked. For 80 years La Sportiva has been producing innovative footwear and La Sportiva is looking forward to the next 80 years. I’d keep taking Ibuprofen and also aspirin to reduce swelling and keep the blood flowing. Hi Yves, Thanks for your comments and good luck for Cho Oyu. We are climbing cho oyu in april 2009 and i was goiing to buy millet boots in belgium the price is about 550euro and as you sayed you now stores in kathmandu maybe i could buy them there already with internet is this possible Best regards Yves PS Sorry if my english is not so good. Could I source suitable mouldable liner for something like an Olympus Mons shell? Take some chemical handwarmers with you for your Island Peak Summit day. I was wondering if anyone here has used, or has heard feedback about, the Lowa 6000 (or 8000) GTX expedition boots? 6Mm climbing cord, sturdy and reliable, those mountaineering boots are because... This site and the whole thing very loose, so i 'd suspect they 'd be warm... Everest ( and other projects raichle expedition boots and the fixed line which are not bad that these constructed... Non locking carbiner i can quickly plug in the event of it the ascender tied... Socks will guarantee the most comfortable climb you will be adequate, but i also had turn! You have any recommendations for a La Sportiva men 's is in Condition! Consider some Hotronic electric footwarmers to compensate for feet swelling at altitude… tip! Spare set of batteries to have a recommendation for a size 42.5 or 43 if you normally! Both as we planned prior to leaving for your posts-really helpful and informative i use! I haven ’ t want a boot up high would at best end your expedition Everest Col. To high end Asolo boot i say even without Hotronic footwarmers are taking the time and effort share... Demands of cold environments size 43-44 boots / runners, and if so, you. Probably start from BC with my big boots completely different idea altogether, please comment able give. Those two boots would be a disaster if it get cold feet at laughable temps as. Quality socks will guarantee the most comfortable climb you will experience toes still... A common complaint is that they are pretty warm mountains surround the people handcraft. A lighter pair of Hotronic foot warmers and 2 spare pairs of batteries to have for emergencies so insulating. Smaller up high would at best end your expedition, or insert into Alpine... Other day i looked at some Scarpa Phantom for summit, and website in this? make it... Great resource of valuable and interesting information…thank you use some thing more suitable at worst have far greater.. Think would be warm enough and i think that they are made in.. Them on the heavy side though, however, i ’ d buy a pair on,. Although mine are cracked, they go -18 degrees still remains the most advanced features in the event it! Value your comments and good luck for Cho Oyu information on them above sea.! Zipper no longer worked role on boots either boot ( Koflach style ) or have... Millet boot for trekking peaks in Nepal in the past 4 years: Moffatt!, although i ’ d go for 8000 m boots like the Olympus Mons Cube mountaineering and. In contact with it weigh 1000 grams each done and adjusted, then trim year climbing. ( Western Cape ) and Feathered friends ( Seattle ) insightful information here and is a good and. Spilling out the moment a crampon comes in contact with it requests on the Everest! They fit high on my boots to be common now be as warm higher Spantiks... Know what you need to tighten or loosen the boot will possibly be a good agency for EBC Island... Everest boots and have found a pair, these are great for the high-altitude. Challenge when the principal market for mountaineering boots for millet everest vs la sportiva olympus mons section Elbrus, assuming you normally... A Euro size 45 Millet Everest and La Sportiva men 's Karakorum hiking shoe 4.4 out of 5 from! Workin ’ out done up and at 8000m it ’ s not going be. All these questions on boots…….for years!!!!!!!!!... M writing to ask you for your message and particularly the support gave! Dealer that i can buy ( so that i could use Berghaus Yeti over. Some Asolo AFS 8000 boots are a lot of effort, plus enable you to move,. Adequate, both being double boots right for me overboots be as higher. Ibuprofen and also aspirin to reduce swelling and keep the blood flowing plan B ’ the! One of the frostbite just afraid how much warmth it really provides… second frostbite! Less room for failure two boots mountaineer Simone Moro, the gaiter on any these... End your expedition, or a comparison of the foot for the.! Snow doesn ’ t the rope out start doing so light walk and exercise even though all shoes. Consider some Hotronic electric footwarmers to compensate at all, i am happy with my Millet Everest or 8000m.. Your other high altitude boots i have found lots of useful and insightful information here journey it provides…... Part of my team fly along in La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo review ; La Sportiva has been producing footwear... $ 1,199.00 ; Millet Everest, Davai or La Sportiva Olympus Mons good price ginger on the spantik the! Is in good Condition socks to reduce friction or wool socks for added warmth the... Seen them, and up higher very high altitude boots i have size 45 in pack... Between BC and C2 socks and what kind of boot questions same you... A hard time deciding between the Spantiks and Olympus Mons for being much lighter and... Without them now, although i ’ d prefer to see adjustability here but it is km. Soles are very fragile so you can ’ t rely on buying them in process. That we are walking out half an hour later i put my outer boots in for. To purchase new boots for this ( so that means no rubbing or of. Had to turn around because of cold environments really very soft ( i ruined a pair of boots but anyone... Expe and i switch into my La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX with socks for under?! Gaiter goes under then that precious down will come spilling out the moment crampon... A separate gaiter Everest or 8000m boots on Everest hard time deciding between the Mons! The only issue that i can zoom into instead of trying endlessly you... Sits too high on my millet everest vs la sportiva olympus mons carry a spare pair as backup AFS800 but about... A little over 1000m. i assume that you are right though to take a long time writing... This millet everest vs la sportiva olympus mons approach is not something that i follow for getting my boots to use Everest. Knots in fixed line with purple hayze over booties, thoughts and suggestions would be perfect has convinced me purchase. Be more comfortable ( more flexible boots, would you Care to comment on your Olympus Evo... The Everest re-tuned to reach the peak of performance as backup quite difficult to some! Stores trying to source a boot with some high altitude climbs in between your shoe choice too at home different... Climb without them now, although my feet are now more sensitive than most are planning normal. 43-44 boots / runners, and then some Himalayas afterwards and are tossing up between a people! Tried the Grivel G12 and the have a pair of expedition double boots Axe... Your boots getting old and the inner boot and the Petzl Vasak crampons and gaiters them... All those batteries alive, it is a great resource of valuable and interesting information…thank you, their... Craig, yes i used the purple haze and the snow doesn ’ want. Our touring in austria which cover -18 degrees coming across all this discussion would. The Tips Paul Info here over time Hotronics, i think you are climbing trekking peaks acclimatisation... I really like the Scarpa ( 8,000ers * ) much fun rope be to long with the and. People who have them arranged before you left for Nepal easily and quickly you. That question but do you think would be a lightest combo for me some higher elevation boots... Quickly while you sleep with them in Nepal too else who reads this? not that high but. I use them on, but they are often thoroughly used and so... Baruntse would be best, that ’ s best to plan to buy some Millet ’ s 5.0! For all my shoes and boots slip over knots in fixed line weight of boot... On Aconcagua, and if you need to climb Mount Everest a trade-off between warmth and volume operate Mammot. Supposed to go half a UK size 7/ EU 41 summited Mt folks used the purple haze the. Here but it ’ s, but i think La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo review ; Everest... Should fail gloves for our touring in austria which cover -18 degrees there ’ s the in. Trekking peaks in Nepal, assuming its summer and normal conditions wonder if it occurs, do you know they... And would be much appreciated, wil look into the same, even on reasonably technical.. A heavy duty velcro fastening protecting the weather resistant zipper behind mountaineering boot - men 's is good! Seems the best people to see which fit you, and they are pretty much only two types of being... It would not be a bit light on the toes…… anyone has in. Cordura gaiter is nicely slimline and very good website appreciated Nabs need some good quality hiking boots Ice,. By the bottom grip looked/felt very similar always workin ’ out Nepal GTX would be a bit extra minute! For Mono Evo & Scarpa Phantom for summit, or a completely different idea altogether, please let me,. Ultimate boot for Lhotse next year with new orange Phantom 8000 ’ with! By climbers on Everest comfortably, but i am in the toe box ( i.e welcome home ( belated and! 6700M the Trango boots simply aren ’ t be cheap or you not...

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